Date: 4/4/2003, 3:50 pm
Wetting the wood and swelling the grain is a popular way to final sanding on Greenland paddles. If you're nervous about doing this on a kayak, do it on a paddle first, and it will make a believer of you.
Shawn
: I use a big kayak bailer type sponge to wet my hull/deck wood after rough
: sanding with 60 grit on a ROS.
: If you sanded with 60 grit and did not wet the wood down to raise the grain
: you would need to sand much more aggresively to remove the depth of the
: 60 grit cut marks. You'd have to use 80 grit to get out the 60 grit cut.
: Wetting down the wood eliminates this and lets you start finishing with 120
: grit.
: The sponge is wet, but not dripping. I go over the wood quickly getting it
: wet and do have some water dripping off as the sponge is compressed. I
: squeeze
: extra water over any staple holes which makes them totally close. The cut end
: grain
: of the staple will still show up as a dark mark, so this does not make the
: staple holes
: invisible. Closing up the staple holes is a help when you glass the interior
: of your boat
: because open staple holes tend to blow bubbles in your resin even with
: dropping
: temperatures to prevent off-gassing of the air in the wood cells.
: I use staples below the waterline on my boats and hot glue to work stapleless
: above the
: waterline and deck.
: The is only so much water that the wood can absorb in the brief pass of the
: wet sponge.
: It's far less than you would imagine and is not enough to cause problems with
: wood
: expansion or glue lines. The surface is usually ready to sand in an hour.
: Wetting the wood will reveal the consistency of the sanded surface,
: show any missed glue blotches and any deep scar/bruises in the wood that
: would be
: otherwise invisible. This gives you the chance to fix them before you move on
: to finish
: sanding and glass wet-out.
: If you soaked the wood for a long period of time, that would be very
: different and would cause problems.
: I use Tie-Bond II glue which is waterproof, but not because it is waterproof.
: I use Tie-Bond II
: because it has the highest temperature rating of all the
: "carpenter's" glues which means it can take more
: heat from the sun on your finished boat and not soften and shift.
: All the best,
: Rob Macks
: Laughing Loon CC&K
: www.laughingloon.com
Messages In This Thread
- Strip: sanding vs planing
James Nixon -- 4/3/2003, 1:40 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Rob Macks -- 4/4/2003, 11:35 am- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
KenC -- 4/4/2003, 3:58 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Rob Macks -- 4/4/2003, 5:21 pm
- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
James Nixon -- 4/4/2003, 3:02 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Rob Macks -- 4/4/2003, 3:38 pm
- Well said...
srchr/gerald -- 4/4/2003, 1:52 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Dennis -- 4/4/2003, 1:45 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Rob Macks -- 4/4/2003, 2:57 pm
- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
JJ Atkinson -- 4/4/2003, 1:28 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Brian Ervin -- 4/7/2003, 10:18 am- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 4/4/2003, 3:51 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Rob Macks -- 4/4/2003, 2:33 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Shawn Baker -- 4/4/2003, 3:50 pm
- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Jay Babina -- 4/4/2003, 9:39 am- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
KenC -- 4/4/2003, 9:02 am- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Ted Henry -- 4/3/2003, 3:47 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing *Pic*
Brian Ervin -- 4/3/2003, 2:23 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
Dave McKinney -- 4/3/2003, 3:39 pm- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing *LINK*
Mark Normand -- 4/3/2003, 8:51 pm
- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing *LINK*
- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing
- Re: Strip: sanding vs planing