Date: 4/15/2003, 8:45 am
: Hi Bill,
: You should have no problems with making your own deck forms. Myrl is right,
: the Chesapeake is easy because it's just an arc (16" rad
: fore/22" rad. aft, I think). An arc shape would be a good starting
: point, but you may need to adjust the height in order to fit inside. For
: kicks, just start with cardboard, and cut some arc shaped pieces that fit
: between the sheers. Duct tape to hold them in place, then hold a long
: straight wood strip (any size) to see if the cardboard forms are fair.
: Adjust until satisfied, then copy/cut the temporary forms out of some
: scrap plywood (3/8"-3/4") and use angle brackets to attach them
: to the sheerclamps (if you install sheerclamps). Check again, over and
: over, and adjust to make it look good. If all looks fair and you are
: comfortable with the size/height of the cockpit, start stripping. Keep in
: mind that you will not have the exact same volume as was designed, but it
: should be close. The deck shape should have little affect on how the boat
: performs, other than the higher deck will catch more wind, but will also
: hold more gear. When I tried this technique with a 0.33 Cirrus model and
: used the same sizes as my Chesapeake, the deck came out very low. At full
: size you would never fit in the cockpit. On my full sized Cirrus, I used
: the supplied forms, but rounded them off slightly. It's personal
: preference, not rocket science.
: The number of these forms needed is also up to you. The more forms, the
: harder it is to make them all line up, but will be more pleasurable to
: work with. The fewer the forms, the easier it is to fair them, but you may
: find it necessary to add more later. Unless the shape is very complex, you
: could get by with 18"-24" spacing.
:
: SMF
On the hybrid Cormorant I am building, I simply used an increasing radius for the front deck. I believe I started with a 16" radius for the form at the front of the coaming. I increased the radius by 2" per foot for each form moving toward the bow. I stopped at a 24" radius as this is fairly flat. I made the rear deck flat. I'm pleased with the outcome. I have some pictures of the forms on my webpage. If anyone is interested, I can post a side view picture.
Kurt
Messages In This Thread
- S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ... help!
Bill -- 4/13/2003, 11:33 pm- Re: S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ...
Myrl Tanton -- 4/16/2003, 3:16 pm- Re: S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ...
Scott ferguson -- 4/14/2003, 6:23 pm- Re: S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ... *LINK*
Kurt Loup, Baton Rouge -- 4/15/2003, 8:45 am- Re: S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ... *Pic*
Scott Ferguson -- 4/15/2003, 10:50 am- Re: S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ...
Kurt Loup, Baton Rouge -- 4/15/2003, 12:03 pm- Re: S&G: Small sheerclamps?
Scott Ferguson -- 4/15/2003, 12:42 pm- Re: S&G: Small sheerclamps?
Kurt Loup, Baton Rouge -- 4/15/2003, 1:51 pm- Re: S&G: Thanks Kurt
Scott Ferguson -- 4/15/2003, 2:02 pm- Re: S&G: Thanks Kurt
Kurt Loup, Baton Rouge -- 4/15/2003, 5:31 pm
- Re: S&G: Thanks Kurt
- Re: S&G: Thanks Kurt
- Re: S&G: Small sheerclamps?
- Re: S&G: Small sheerclamps?
- Re: S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ...
- Re: S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ... *Pic*
- Re: S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ...
Myrl Tanton -- 4/14/2003, 1:01 pm - Re: S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ...
- Re: S&G: From strip to S&G to hybrid S&G/strip ...