: Richard,
: I really like that seat. I have not decided what I am going to do in my
: Greenland style S&G that is currently being built but I am leaning heavily
: towards your design. I just have a few questions to make sure I understand
: how you utilize this seat.....

: 1. It appears from your pictures that the bungie cords attach the seat in two
: places? One on the rear bulkhead and the other through the two strips on
: the cockpit bottom? Are the holes in the frame where you run the bungie
: through and how do you get them tight?
The rear bungie cord is drawn through the holes at the upper part of the rails. This bungie is hooked on the holder at the bulkhead. A little tricky to get in place the first time. On the hull bottom there is a bungie holder, the cord goes through this and is hooked on the fore end of the rails in the notches.
Just try and error some times will get the bungie cord to the right tension.
Double figure eight bend (#1416 in "The Ashley Book of Knots") will secure the cord from slipping.

: 2. The two strips on the cockpit bottom....are they to keep the seat from
: shifting from side to side? Are they aligned inside the seat runners or
: outside? I was thinking I could attach the seat to the runners with
: stainless steel bolts and wing nuts although getting to the wing nuts to
: tighten and loosen could be rough I suspect.
Yes, they fasten the seat. You can have them on what side you want. It depends on the hull curve and how high you want the seat.
I build wooden kayaks (six by now) and so far I havn´t used any metal whatsoever in any of them. Not that I´m allergic to metal, I have built many things in various metal before, in my opinion wooden kayaks shall be wooden kayaks.
I havn´t seen any excuse to use bolts and nuts on the seat. It lays there and the bungies holds it even when rolling. My back is very pleased if I dont exercise rolling so I dont get me in such conditions which needs rolling. But I have tried in controlled conditions just to learn the limits.

: 3. It appears that the patterns for the runners can be printed but I'm not
: sure if they will be the right size. Do you have another document that
: will enable me to use your same patterns--that is if you don't mind?
Yes, it can be printed out. It will fill an A4-sized sheet 297mm. Some printers won´t print this cause they submit margins. You can scale it down, print and later enlarge in a copiator. You can wait till tomorrow and I´ll post you another drawing. I´m not at that computer right now.
The drawing or pattern or idea is free to use.

: 4. The seat looks very comfortable but I am wondering how much it shifts and
: moves with only the rail guides and bungies holding it. Does it do well
: when rolling? And how about when wet exiting?
It doesn´t shift or move at all. No problem when rolling or entering/exiting.
Once when practising reentry I broke the corners of the two strips most forward.
That seat wasn´t glassed or epoxied at all. With glass on (underneath or both sides) you won´t brake any strips in normal conditions.

: 5. Do you know about how much the seat weighs?
575grams glassed and epoxied on both sides.

: I like the fact that you could remove it on a trip and use it as a chair on
: the beach as well as a cockpit seat. I guess a hole could be cut in it
: also to act as a drink holder without too much effort. Not being an
: experienced kayaker I am unsure of exactly what I will want but that seat
: just looks really cool and comfortable to me.
My back (L4 and L5)is complaining and aching after sitting in a sofa or soft chair more then half an hour. On a wooden kitchen chair I can sit for several hours. Just sitting is 8 times more stressing your spine and back then standing up or laying down. I like sitting in the kayak so I care for sitting good. Thats why I choosed the wooden seat.

: Thanks,

: Tony

Richard Kohlström