hi mike, how are ya
but these are just notions only but not tested

The idea is to hot glue on a temp keel skeg (say 4’ long, starting from 0 up to say 2in deep near rear and back down again to 0” right up to the stern). And check how this affects the weather cocking – add more or less to balance- prob way less. Then rip it off and cut out this same approx amt from the c/l of the keel at the front, restitch and reseam.
Since the panels near the bow/stem are close to vertical, one is more likely to be successful doing this here.
This is all guess work so I’d lay up a simple profile form 1st, then cut ½ extimated panel out, then recheck vs the previous form profile to see if change is close to mocked up skeg. If close, stitch up w/ wire(use steel wire for strength), add 2” packing tape to seam and check out on the water just like the skinners do w/ their real temporary saran wrap testing.

If still need more, do more trimming.

Or one could concentrate just on the bow as this area has real vertical panels. One could carve out huge chunks of panels here and still maintain some decent s&g shape. So this is where I’d just guess and carve out say 3in at the waterline tapering off to 0 at the bow peak and to 0 say 1 or 2 feet to the rear. B/c of the vertical panels, you could almost do it w/ one cut.
Could almost premark out the stitch holes for consecutively larger cuts, predrill 1st set, prewire to 1st set(say 1" only), hack off, tighten the wires, tape and test. Repeat as necessary to eliminate weathercocking. could actually play w/ the bow shape a bit say concavish as some greenland yaks.