the
: yak looks pretty symmetrical but already with a large skeg like drop at
: the rear, so probably won't need to take much out the front to change it.

: but guesses only, but if one was the builder, the work would be simple
: compared to the actually building.

That's a pretty picture,,I and the phototgrapher put it in that spot, it was taken on a COLD winter day down the street from my house. That's briny ice around it. There's less rocker than you might guess looking at the picture because it's on a slight rise. My suspicion is that you'd have to take a fair amount out of the bow. I don't know if this exercise applies but it's a thought.

Measure from the cg to the stern waterline,,go to the bow and mark the same distance from the cg. Place a weight on the stern point and see how much it sinks. Move the same weight to the forward spot and see how much the bow waterline sinks. Me thinks you'll see more of a sharp waterline in the bow than the stern beyond that point. In other words even with a little wave that bow is digging allowing the stern to kick around. Without much flare to the side panels there really isn't much happening when you lean over, that bow is still stuck in the water. That's why I think there needs to be a much shallower entry, the balance of volume in the stern will really drive the bow in any kind of wave,,that's why a skeg is missing the picture,,that skinny bow WAY UP THERE will have a substantially greater effect than a skeg located a shorter distance aft. Get that bow a LOT looser so that you can move the kayak BEFORE the stern drives it. Slab sides aren't a characteristic of sheer clamp type constructions but sharp entries can be without a high bow or lots of rocker.