On all four yaks I've built, I have fitted or retrofitted 10/24 stainless steel "tee" nuts by drilling the size hole, epoxy coating the raw wood, and the underside, a used a 10/24 bolt though a backing to pull the tee nut shafy from below into the hole till the "flat" lay flush to the underside on the deck and the three "pins" sank into the wood. Clean with a Qtip dipped in a oil, let cure. You have a hole that is lined inside with a stainless steel thread. Next I use doubled over 3/4 inch tape with a hole melted in it to hold the deck lines, the forward and rear toggles. The tape is 1.4 inches long when doubled over, a 10/24 Philios pan head in a stainless steel finsing washer screws the tape to the deck. It's very strong and the "flat" of the tee nut acts to distribute the force better then wood screws in a wood block in the underside of the deck. It doesn't leak and makes for removing easier, too.
Whayever you do, make real sure that you have a good bow toggle attachement otherwise it could strip out while carrying it and end up dropping hard and splitting the yak seam.

: I have thought of putting a soft fitting at the bow (1" webbing doubled
: over into a loop and screwed into place, hopefully screwing into the
: end-pour). However, I have heard that the soft fittings aren't appropriate
: for perimeter lines.

: Any comments or suggestions?

: Thanks,

: - Joe