I cut an 11 degree bevel on a lot of my strips - this seems to work well with a lot of the hull. Mark the bevel side with a pencil because you can't see it.

For a rolling bevel, I place the strip in position and put a slash pencil mark across the strip on to the strip below or one I'm fitting to.

I then start with the block plane and start planing a bevel. I push the strip back down for the fit. I may plane a little more and get the fit good near the pencil mark. As I move forward, I bevel a bit more - once I get the area a few feet forward, I put another pencil mark across the strips and move on forward. The pencil marks keep the strip in length-wise alignment and lets me know the area that's done. I always start in the center and go towards the bow or stern. If I go towards the bow, the stern end of the strip is clamped in position with spring clamps so you can move along easily without pulling it out of position. I just peel the strip out enough to plane and place it back for the fit. You can over bevel a bit favoring your outside or visual fit.

I use the low angle Stanley Plane.

I make a sanding block that's about 10" long by 3" with some 60 grit belt sanding abrasive glued to it. This is good for a fast leveling of the transitions or when you want to tweek the bevel a hair more. The sanding block is also good for fine tuning those pointed ends.

I can do a rolling bevel on both ends in about 3-5 minutes. After a while you get good at it. Most boats only need a roling bevel along the shear line or just above it where strips twist from the back deck to the front deck. For 95% of the kayak, it's a flat bevel.