Date: 7/17/2003, 12:08 pm
thanks for the advise paul. I'll likely use the duct tape idea and worry about any and all problems in the fall. I'm way behind schedule and I don't want to see the whole summer slip away without some good use out of the boat. I can't believe I didn't already think of duct tape...and here I was ready to bring sandpaper out with me and grind down any painful edges. I heard a good proverb the other day:
The only tools you need are duct tape and WD-40; If doesn't move and you want it to, use WD-40. If it moves and you don't want it to, then use duct tape:)
James
: Generally your answer is to scrape or sand.
: Scrapers work really well if you do the job when the resin is set, but not
: completely hard. Sometimes this state is called "Green",
: although the resin is certainly not that color. Otherwise, once the resin
: hardens you'll have to resort to sandpaper.
: Remove all rough edges and high spots. That includes overlaps from edges of
: cloth which was applied in pieces. Then put on a single layer of epoxy
: resin to cover the areas. this prevents any expeosed edges of glass fibers
: from wicking in water. Sand lightly and varnish.
: If you go through the entire thickness of the glass cloth and get down to the
: wood then you'll need to patch the area. If that happens, carefully sand
: the area two inches to each side, gently tapering the glassed area from
: full thickness to no thickness. This tapering-back of the glass is called
: "feathering". When you lay a patch of glass and fresh resin over
: this area it will fill the bowl-like depression.Then, when you later sand
: off the high spots at the edges of the repair you'll leave enough glass
: behind, filling the depression and its gently sloping edges, to give you
: the necessary strength. If you were to slice through the repair you would
: see a tapered layer of glass cloth mathcing another tapered layer of glass
: cloth, just like the wood tapers in a scarf joint. Patches done this way
: are darn near invisible once they are varnished. I have about a dozen
: pathes on my cnaoe and can probably find the outline of only one.
: Glass which has delaminated may, or may not trap water. It all depends on
: whther water can get into the pocket or bubble. You have a couple of
: choices here. You cna inject the bubble with liquid resin. That will
: harden into a fairly strong blob which will bond the glass to the wood,
: and not leave any space for water.
: Or, you can sand off the delaminated area (s) and patch it (them). Unless
: these are also areas where there are sharp ends from the glass you don't
: need to do this now. Wait until you pull the boat out of the water in the
: fall and do all your patching at one time. You can repair the exterior
: dings and scratches as well as any interior spots that annoy you. Varnish
: before you store it. By next spring the boat will look beautiful when you
: pull it out of storage.
: Carry duct tape and cover any sharp spots that might get you. You can leave
: the tape on to cover the sharp edges until you have time to make the
: repairs.
: Hope this helps.
: PGJ
Messages In This Thread
- Strip: Interior flaws...OUCH
James Nixon -- 7/16/2003, 6:29 pm- Re: Strip: Interior flaws...OUCH
Paul G. Jacobson -- 7/16/2003, 7:21 pm- Re: Strip: Interior flaws...OUCH
James Nixon -- 7/17/2003, 12:08 pm
- Re: Strip: Interior flaws...OUCH
- Re: Strip: Interior flaws...OUCH