: Jesper,

: I agree with Mike that ½” could create big problems down the road. Something
: in the range of + or – 1/8”-1/16” is a good goal to shoot for.

: First question is are you using an internal or external strong back? The
: alignment methods are slightly different. I have used internal strongback
: for both my kayaks but I can give you some general tips that apply to
: both.

: You need to start with blocks you use to attach forms to the strongback that
: are square, plumb and precisely spaced by one foot. I find this the
: easiest part and relies lines drawn with a square to eliminates most of
: Mike’s out of alignment permutations.

: Now you are left primarily getting the up/down and left/right alignments. The
: best tool for this is a string line across the top of the forms and along
: the waterline. If these are off your keel might have a side to side curve
: or the hull line might become unfair.

: One trick that I used was coffee stirrers hot glued to the forms so that the
: string could align with the lines on the form. (see attached photo) I have
: also heard of people using the new low cost laser levels aimed through
: alignment holes.

: One other trick I can share is that make sure you have a good clamping method
: as you screw them down. Most of my problems arose from the forms shifting
: as I was drilling/drilling into the forms

Guys,

I have a nice set of blocks already on the strongback, which is internal.
Clamping the forms to the blocks while drilling/screwing i can handle.
The forms are spaced by 30,1cm's, as that turned out to be the measure fitting into my strongback overall length.

Will try the "coffee-cup stirrer" method, plus removing all forms and create a center line down the form with a string.

Additionally a lot of patience will probably get me there :-)

Thanks,

Jesper