: Those are good pictures.

Thanks Chip.

: I suppose you only bend the rib part way around the
: jig and not the full 270 degrees... or is there springback, etc.

When I used it on the last boat, I bent most of the ribs all the way around it. That had the effect of making the ends very pliable and easy to insert into the frame. Since they were still hot, there was a lot of springback, but the pliability of the wood made up for it.

One downside to that method is that you're bending the initial portion of the rib that should be straight for a few inches after it comes out of the mortise. The effect of this is that the ribs take on a more rounded shape that results in the chines being pretty narrow and the hull being "multichined" (the bottom of the gunwales forms a second chine on each side). This can be seen in the interior photos of the boat.

If I were to make another similar jig, I would design it for only a 180 degree wrap and leave room for the initial part of the rib to be inserted past the radius of the jig, so it will remain straight while the area of the intended bend is bent.

: I'm looking forward to seeing the new jig idea too.

If you're familiar with Mark Starr's book, what I'm working on is an adjustable version of his forms. I assembled most of the prototype last night and hopefully will finish and test it tonight. I want this new boat to have relatively square shouldered ribs, which will increase the chine spacing. The jig I built will handle ribs that are ~12" to ~20" wide, measured between the insides of the mortises (~23" max. beam). I'll post some photos as soon as the jig is complete.