: I have never built a bead and cove boat...and probably never will unless I
: build one for someone who absolutely has to have bead and cove. After
: installing a sheer strip I simply lay the next strip on it, mark the two
: with a pencil so I can return the strip I'm working on to the same place
: each time as I work down the strip. Then...after looking at the fit...I
: plane several feet at one end, check the fit, and continue on down the
: strip until it fits the entire length. The angles will be different...but
: you're just planing to fit...so it is easy and tight. If you are in an
: area with lots of curve you can also plan a slight bevel on the opposite
: side of that strip so the bevel on the strip you will be fitting next
: won't be so big. If you screw up, toss the strip, or use it somewhere
: else. It's no biggie. I make sure the outside of the hull is tight and
: pretty, do the best I can on the inside...but I don't get crazy about the
: inside. With practice you'll get the outside and inside pretty tight,
: pretty fast. Planing and fitting the strips is blissful, relaxing....you
: can just let the rest of the world dissappear from your mind as you....
: Hmmm...looks like I need to call the shrink again. My boat building
: addiction is rearing it's little wooden head.

Thanks for all the answers to my questions, my next project looks like it will not use the B&C method.

One more question, Lets say your done stripping the kayaks hull and now its time to fair the boat with the block plane and fairing board, do you end up with alot of gaps after taking off the high spots? or do the joints end up being tight enough through the strips thickness that only the larger gaps will be on the inside of the hull and deck?