: Make sure you have no feather boards after the blade. I use one good one
: that's about 5" wide pressing the board just before the blade and one
: that keeps the board down on the table. Basically that's it. I have one
: loose one after the blade just to keep the strip from curling too far off
: the table but it doesn't even touch. Sometimes too many feather boards or
: guides puts pressure on the blade especially on the exit side of the
: blade. Also make sure your blade height is about a quarter inch above the
: wood and nothing more.

: Without knowing more, I would try less feather boards and guides. All you
: want is to get the wood against the fence at the one point just before it
: gets cut. (almost like using a band saw). In actuallity, a long fence is a
: hinderence. Years back I used all kinds of guides and feather boards and
: ruined some good wood. Long pieces can really put pressure on the blade if
: there's a tiny warp in the wood. I also learned that helpers can cause
: binding since they tend to pull it but not always parrallel to the fence.
: Make sure no helpers are pulling the wood which can cause the wobble you
: got although your photo is pretty extreme. Good Luck.

I would like to add one little comment to what Jay has said. Use a splitter after the blade. When cutting thin strips I have to remove the blade guard which also serves as a splitter. This allows the freshly cut strip to vibrate left to right and it can pinch the blade or throw off the cut accuracy. When I remove the blade guard I add a piece of sheet metal about 1/8" thick that sticks up above the saw surface and keeps the cut strip against the fence. If I forget to install this little piece I get cuts that look like yours.

Glen in Baie-St-Paul.