: I got this in a coule of places on my first boat. It was caused by over-
: enthusiastic squeegeeing of the resin (perhaps I had let it cure a little
: too long). As the squeegee is run down the glass, the weave gets stretched
: in the direction of the pull, and will no longer lie flat.

: I avoided it entirely on my second boat by doing very little squeegeeing
: after the glass was wet out. There might be some weight penalty here, but
: my second boat is lighter than the first, despite being longer, so I don't
: think there was much penalty. I simply applied the resin with a brush and
: made sure that the resin was moved along smartly after the glass was wet out.
: I did a little gentle squeegeeing only where it was clear that a run was
: starting. I got fewer runs than on the first boat, so my guess is that I
: managed to wet out the glass using less resin in the first place.

: Andy

On my first stripper, I had two freinds help me apply the resin. One freind
had built a stripper before. We applied way too much resin and we didn't squeegee
it off. I had major ripples in the cloth surface in a few areas that I sanded through
and patched. I recommend squeegeeing off the excess resin.

You may be right, Andy, about over zealous squeegeeing with a too stiff squeegee
causing these wrinkles for Ian. I can't think of what else it can be if the glass itself
didn't have wrinkles to begin with, or there isn't too much resin left for the cloth to float
on causing the wrinlkes.

I cut my squeegees from plastic milk cartons. This plastic is stiff enough to remove excess resin
yet you can't apply too much pressure or the plastic will fold flat.

I've tried most of the squeegees sold for use with epoxy and they are really auto body filler
tools meant to apply thickened auto body filler. They are way too stiff and it would be very
easy for the novice to apply too much pressure to remove excess resin. They can create
the wrinkles you talk of and also create some wicked foam.

If the squeegee is used too firmly with a high angle, it will create a wave of resin, and in the glass,
ahead of the squeegee edge. Air forced out of the glass will get trapped in this wave and it will
be forced through the glass weave making it into a very fine froth that will give your
glass the classic cloudy look.

The soution to this problem is to:
Roll on a thin coat of resin to wet out your glass, so you have an even amount
of resin and not so much resin, the glass will be floating on top of it.

Squeegee the excess with a soft plastic squeegee, held at a low angle.

Squeegee slowly, to reduce possible foam generation.

The above also assumes you are using small batches of resin with a slow hardener
with the temps falling to prevent wood off-gassing even if you've done a seal coat.

Speaking of the seal coat, I roll on a thin coat and don't touch it. The wood will absorb
resin at different rates so the surface will look dry in spots and shiney in spots. As soon
as it's tack free, I lay on the glass and wet-out.

If the glass you are using has a very obvious wrinkle to it it will not lay flat
when wet-out. Epoxy has no tack strength to hold glass in place. I had a roll
of 4 oz. glass that has this tight snad alke bottom pattern and i had to just
throw it away.

Glass cloth is full of air that the epoxy has to displace so it will float on top
of excess resin instead of laying flat on your wood surface. If you don't
squeegee off the excess resin your glass will be floating on top the the resin
to a greater or lesser degree depending on just how much resin you applied.

Good Luck!

All the best,
Rob Macks
Laughing Loon CC&K
www.laughingloon.com