: Other options are a contractors' saw (benchtop table saw) or getting creative
: with my circular saw and some lumber. I'm not particularly confident in
: setting up good extensions for the contractors' saw, and the circular saw
: thing seems like a good way to a bad result.

Get creative with the circular saw.

Get a 6 to 8 foot long 1x8 or 1x10, or a slab of 3x4 inch thick plywood and 4 bolts with washers and nuts. Raise the circular saw so that the blade is completely above the base (as you would do to start a plunge cut). and set your saw on the board near the middle of the board's length. Drill 4 holes, one near each corner of the base, and insert your bolts in these, using the washers and nuts to clamp the base of the saw to the wood. Keep these a bit loose.

Plug in the saw, start it, and make a plunge cut through the wood. Wiggle it a little bit to expand the slit the blade is running in. Turn the saw off and unplug it. Tighten the bolts.

Flip the saw and board so the exposed blade is on top. Measure 1/4 inch from the blade and screw down a piece of wood to serve as a fence.

The fence should run the length of the infeed side (about 3 to 4 feet) and end at the end of the blade. That way your strips can move away from the blade after they are cut.

Get a piece of scrap wood to check your alignment. Cut about 2 to 3 feet of this and turn off the power ot the saw, leaving the board in place. If the strip is a good thickness, about 10 inches to 14 inches after the blade drive an 8d nail through the kerf, and on into the board which is serving as your base. This will serve to keep the kerf open and prevent the strip from sliding back by the saw. Drive another one or two right through the kerf if you wish, spacing them 6 to 8 inches apart, and moving them further from the blade. These will serve as outfeed guides.

Set this on a couple of sawhorses and rip away.

Hope this helps

PGJ