: I am now building the Shooting Star which is simular to the North Star I
: think and so the bevels should be about the same. I made the strip holder
: in the picture and it takes about 4 passes down the strip with the plane
: tilted and guided by the fence to put the bevel on in about two minutes. I
: only bevel one side of each strip. This takes care of 95 % of the bevels
: and I use a little finger plane to change the bevel degree at some of the
: ends when needed. I got all of my cedar at Menards on sale for $45 and
: will have lots of strips left over. I cut my strips 3/16 thick for this
: boat but 1/4" on my first one.
: I hope this helps.
: John in IN

75 to 85 strips in total, @ 3/16" X 3/4" will do for most kayaks, deck and hull.

Unless you own two routers and have set-up cutters many times before I'd suggest using
flat edges strips and bevel one edge of each strip as you place it on the boat.

The easiest method to bevel and fit flat edged strips, is to spring clamp half the strip in place on the boat and
bevel and test fit the strip in place. When you are done with one half then unclamp that half and clamp the other
half and fit and bevel that end. You don't need a long flat bench surface and special jigs to hold the strip.

Use a block plane to make the bevel. Hold the plane upside down and make a slight bevel on the
inside/ bottom edge of each strip. Clamping the strip to the boat, holds the strip for you, where you will install it
and allows you to test fit the bevel as you go.

I used to use B&C below the waterline on my boats. I've recently switched to beveling all the strips, it's just so easy.

There is no guesswork as to how tight the joint will be, as is the case with B&C.

All the best,
Rob Macks
Laughing Loon CC&K
www.laughingloon.com