To each their own. I just have to make a plug for Nick's book, the definitive bible of strip-building, which has a great discussion on epoxy and use (availiable at Border's, Barnes and Noble, kayak shops sometimes, and Amazon, not to mention directly from Nick).

Here's some considerations:
1. with the cold, the cure time will be extended somewhat. Many have worked around this with either space heaters and the like or building a little tent and doing the same.
2. if cost is an issue, there are epoxies that are substantially cheaper then the MAS and West System, and are mixed without the expensive (and unreliable) pumps by using a simple by-volume resin:hardener ratio of 2:1. 3:1 or 5:1 custom ratio (depending on the formulation of the hardner). I have this can of hardener that has a 10:1 ratio and cures with a toughness that's pretty neat, but it takes a solid week to cure.
3. if color-or lack of it-is an issue, then I have found the MAS the clearest of the epoxies, but it's also had issues with getting soft on really hot days.
4. pre-warming the can of resin and the can of hardener by putting the cans in a bucket of hot water is a good way to warm the epoxy mix and make it less viscous.
5. you might want to search the archives for the hundreds of discussions on epoxy, epoxy tricks and brands out there.

Get a chance, you might want to look at Vaclav's little discussion and testing of epoxies but keep in mind this: he believes as most do that these companies make their own epoxies. That's not true-and if you have a name of a sales rep who will say this in writing give it to me, cause I'll sue the guy civilly for fraud. The resin components and hardeners are made by half-a dozen chemical manufacturers. The stuff called 'resin' and the stuff called 'hardener' is in actuality mixes of components and additives to achieve desired ranges of performance. The companies sell their line using mixes of the components to achieve a desired trait whether it's really there or not, but it's that deleicate question of sales hype versus outright civil action and a referral to the DA or AG's office. Mark-up in that industry is incredible, plus the requisite accessory hidden costs, though the liability and incurred costs are equally incredible. Prices vary and range with many issues but it's around a nickel to a dime a gallon. That's a mark-up to support a whole distribution and marketplace. Vinylesters are even cheaper to crank out (that stinky, tricky horrible crap used to make spas and moldings in dismal industrial settings). You decide how much you want to shoulder that mark-up.
Some things are seemingly true: definitive traits include thickness, cure-times, the amount and mix of amines (minimizing blush), wet-out penetration (a large portion of epoxies are used for coatings, paint and sealers), compatibilities, mix ratios, "hardness" and a few more things that I forgot.

So check the archives out for a rich discussion of every facet on epoxy of the five or so epoxy brands commonly used by everyone with great success for the most part. One thing, you'll shortly become a pro at it with a little practice. The cold workspace will definitely give you an extended work time.
I'm waiting for the components and yak hull to heat up in the Sun for a little repair glassing myself, and the install of a new rear keel line mount system.

hope this helps

: Got my first boat about ready to glass. I have absolutely no experience
: working with fiberglass. My shop is heated with a wood stove when I am
: working in it but otherwise is unheated. The temperatures outside are down
: to 0 degrees Celsius at night and not much above 15 degrees during the
: day. I am looking at either West System or perhaps MAS. Any guidance?