Chris

Good write-up. There's another aspect to kevlar, it seems to take a bit more epoxy, too. Have you noticed that, too?

My only experience was a disastrous sanding of a kevlar layup test piece and it ended up sent to the local landfill for long-tern storage.
We tend to scrape the bow and stern areas up-same as everyone else. I've retrofitted a removeable/replaceable scrap surface. The rear keel is apitong, and want to retrofit the a scrape surface curved to fit the curve at stations 2 through station 3.5. The rear keel scrape surface are mounted to the hull by a embedded maple strip epoxied and glassed in. That embedded maple strip has embedded stainless steel 10/24 T-nuts. The mount screws are stainless steel Phillips pan head machine screws in countersunk holes. The apitong stern strips seem to work pretty well when landing and dragging the stern up on sand and rock, and the apitong doesn't need treatment, it's high in silicon and oils and seems to take daily 8-12 hour daily saltwater immersions so far.

Bow Scrape Area Ideas
I'm thinking that multiple layers of maple epoxied to the curve and trimmed to shape might take a glancing blow for the underbow. I'm thinking to mount it with pan head pan head stainless steel screws-maybe square drive? The other idea is a glued-on fiberglass shield molded in layup in place on the inverted kayak bow (seen on old Seaward tandems) using multiple layers of 2-inch strips.
The downside will be the drag.