I have a 47-lb. Guillemot 18 with double 5 oz. glass on the hull. Interior stem reinforcements of 15 oz. biaxial and 4 layers outside keel stems (second boat)

I have a 31-lb Cormorant 16 hybrid. Single 6 oz. glass everywhere. Interior stem reinforcements of 15 oz. biaxial and 4 layers outside keel stems (third kayak)

My first kayak was a 57-lb Chesapeake 17 with glass on the deck only at the coaming, a single layer of 6 oz. outside, single 6 oz. at the cockpit, 9 oz. tape inside the seams.

Experience pays off.

Use a squeegee to apply resin to glass. Rollers and brushes tend to "telegraph" the highs and lows of the glass through successive coats. Squeegees only fill the lows. Using a squeegee on the very first layer of glass insures that the glass is bedded down in the resin and is not floating on top.

Keep fillets small and neat.

A full fill-coat regimen is unnecessary inside the kayak.

Tape is lighter than shear clamps.

Keep fillets small and neat.

Vertical strip or veneer coamings are lighter weight than stacked plywood coamings.

End pours should be large enough for strength, but can be lightened using glass or phenolic microballoons--add some "kitty hair" (chopped glass) for strength here.

Use a squeegee.

Keep fillets small and neat.

Promptly clean up epoxy squeeze-out anywhere.

Practice. Your second kayak will be lighter, your third should be lighter yet. I doubt I can save anything from my Cormorant weight next time--ounces if any, not pounds.

Shawn