After reading all these amazing responses from the gang I would say, yes and yes some more. All this stuff will work and work well enough for you to build without expensive setups or additional tools.

My system differs only slightly from the other guys except that I'm more of a dweeb about getting the original setup correct. I'm like that, I suppose, because I believe that the first setup is the most critical just as in strip building. All errors in this initial step are carried throughout the build and aren't easily repaired.

I build a set of cradles for the hull that match the chine panels, allowing for the thickness of the material being used for the hull. The cradles are carefully trued front to rear for square and parallel as well as up and down. I do this with a set of strings that get pinned to the build table from the center of the platform.

As I stitch the panels together I use my eye for dectecting twist and I don't over-tighten the wires until I get it completely crafted as a hull.

I check the alignment of the chines and also use the beveling method as described by Rehd for maintaining that contact. When the boat is settled after a day or so and square, I begin tightening the wires from the first seam up the boat by working my way around the entire project a little at a time. This gradually draws the hull together so that stress is spread evenly with no "hard" spots.

If you've ever torqued down a head on a car engine, it's basically the same procedure.

While doing this tightening-up process, I frequently check the hull for distortion, first by eye and second by the use of a digital level that is placed across the boat from gunnel to gunnel. If the boat is to beamy (as in some canoe designs) for the level to reach, I use a stiff stick from ash to bridge the distance and put the level on that. A digital level is way more accurate than a bubble level. (see I told you I was a dweeb about this)

Anyway, once the hull is pasted inside with tight wires intact, it isn't likely to do any shifting. The cradles really provide a terrific work space for your efforts and maintain critical alignment as well.

Once the hull section is glassed inside and out the cradles can be enlarged a quarter inch or so and the cradle surface covered with a thin indoor/outdoor carpet. This gives a soft, firm surface on which to rest the hull while you finish the rest of boat.

Chris