: Thanks, but I do realize it is simple task. And who is Rob. :-)

: The female mold is difficult to build only in that you usually have to make a
: male mold first. But in my case I have the existing boat for that. I am
: thinking of checking with a local fiberglass company for their cost to
: build the mold for me. But I am confident I can build a mold that will
: maintain its shape. That is more an issue on commiting the space in my
: garage for the duration, plus.

: As to the fraying of Kevlar, I assume this is why most books are recommending
: putting fiberglass as the outer coat. I am wondering if a
: glass/kevlar/glass is not a good idea in a canoe where there is more
: banging about on the inside. Even a 3 oz layer would go a long way.

: I have the book: "Building Your Kevlar Canoe". But it is focused on
: a male mold formed canoe. And not really interested in going that route
: due to the shape of the Giak. As you can see (should have included the
: image earlier):

In the 60’s I worked at Fisher Body, a division of General Motors that made the car bodies. We made female fiberglass molds off of wooden models of car parts like fenders, hoods, doors, etc. First you have to make a parting flash ledge about three or four inches wide around the boat where it will be separated in to two halves.We used a paperboard held in place with modeling clay for this flashing.Then we paste waxed the already lacquered wood models two times and shined each coat. Then we put on several coats of green water-soluble parting. Then again waxed this to a shine twice. Now, fiberglass this prepared half starting with a brushed on white Gel surface coat (we used Myers plastics), a pattern makers Supply Company located in several cities. When that has set to the point that you can barely dent it with your fingernail we poured on a second coating to build up the surface coat even more and let it set to the finger nail test. Now you can start your fiber glassing using a laminating plastic. We worked fast and built up a thickness of maybe ¼ to 3/8 of an inch, (about 6 layers or so) being careful not to puddle the laminating mix, which would produce heat. We use large tailor scissors to cut and tuck as we glassed. Once this is finished and given the finger nail test for the set, we put in plywood ribs length, width, and around the outside flashing, using laminating plastic with ground fiberglass mixed to a stiff cottage cheese consistency to butter the ribs and squash them into place. Then we put a cottage cheese radius around all of the ribs for extra strength. Once this is set up, Mill the ribs off flat and turn this whole thing up side down and you are ready to start on the other half of the boat. Take the paperboard flashing and clay off and clean this flashing lip up. Drill some locator bevels around this fiberglass lip with a large drill,(just make a beveled hole and don’t go all the way through. These bevels will locate and lock the two halves into exact position later on to mate the boat halves together if you want to put the two halves together in the molds rather then taking them out and seam taping them together. You can inter seam tape through the deck half while they are together in the mold. Now wax and part this half of the boat including the lip flashing just like you did the first half of the boat and fiberglass this half and put in the ribs for strength and rigidity as you did in the first half. When you separate the two female half molds the green water-soluble parting will wash out with water. You can easily sand out any blemishes in the easily sandable white gel coat. This is your mold. Part this the same way as before for your boat. Remember you can't have any backdraft (hooks) that will hold you model from being releaced from the mold.
It’s been a long time but this is how I remember this being done.

John