My thoughts for the "satin" the triaxial glass you have and it's tendency towards being difficult to wet out, Polycon 700 resin with the Polycon 22 hardener. The 700/22 was designed to be a penetrating epoxy for smooth concrete floors. In other words, it is very fluid and conseguently wet-out is much faster then every other mix I've tried. A gallon kit cost $42 USD and is a 3:1 mix ration by volume though tolerates a 2.75:1 to a 3.5:1 ratio and still delivers somewhat the same performance. The 2.5 to 2.75 range (more hardener then normal) delivers a flexible layup though you must wait for full cure for the effects otherwise it's "cheesy." As in all epoxies using nitrogen compounds in the catayst process, there will be varying amounts of hydrated amines on the surface of the cured epoxy...or in other words, blush-including the guranteed blushless epoxies. This is the way it goes in all epoxies of the kind we use, and it's wise to give the surface a washdown with hot water and a scrub, let dry and rough the surface to enhance the bond. Whatever epoxy you choose, do this to have years of faultless performance without any long term area delaminations after a applied stress. Of course, it's important to dry the surface after washing and before epoxy application!
If it's money you want to save then definitely AE Yale's epoxy here in San Diego or US Composites in Florida. If it's crystal clear epoxy the Rake is the stuff but...it gets soft under constant heat! For instance, with a dark wood deck and a long day paddle, there will be some issues develop along those lines. I'm not sure if this had to do with the bad batch of a component of the hardener that affected most epoxy companies last year (the chemicals that make up the epoxy components are manufactured by a handful of companies, all epoxies really come from the same places). Then again, others down here at the boatyards have said that Raka is always that way, which makes no sense whatsoever.

In terms of glass sources, there's many on the Internet. My favorite is in La Mesa herein San Diego (the benefits of a ocean-side Big City with a diversifeid industry base). A yard of 36 inch wide 6 ox s-glass is $2.20 USD. A yard of 50 inch wide 2 by 2 weave carbon fiber is $22 USD. There's no reason for it to be so friggin expensive but so it goes. Look around, there's always some business liquidating assets. I got a birthday present a while back of a 5 inch roll remnant of 60 inch wide 2 by 2 weave, 5.4 oz, carbon "tape" ply cloth, at least $2000 USD value. The couple who gave me the gift got it for a song. Deals are out there. One thing about getting things sight-unseen is the way they look when you get them.

I hope this babble of mine helps in some way.

: Been following this board during the construction of my Outer Island which
: has been so helpful. I am about to the point of glassing and as such wish
: to draw on the knowledge of all the more experience builders out there.
: I've been pouring over the archives regarding the various glass layups in
: search of (like everyone else) the best compromise between lightweight and
: durable. Here's what I'm proposing: (keeping in mind that I don't envision
: heavy surf landings, but anticipate the usual bumps and bangs with rocks
: and the boat being dragged onto shore in the protected waters off
: Vancouver Island)

: Hull: Exterior - Full 3.25oz Satin / Football of 3.75 S-glass / Extra Bow and
: stern layers
: Interior - 3.25 Satin / Full or partial layer of 3.75 S-glass OR
: Raka 5oz (I'm aware of the known problems but this will be mostly hidden
: anyway and would like the opportunity to try out all sorts of glass on
: this boat)

: Deck: Exterior - 3.75oz S-glass
: Interiour - 3.25oz Satin with some additional reinforcements in the required
: areas ( most likely a small second layer and some unidirection carbon
: tape.)

: I came up with this based on the low resin requirements of the satin cloth
: and the added strenth and durability of the S-glass with the no reported
: difference in clearity.

: As for epoxy, I plan to order the standard Raka 350/127 since the local
: suppliers here in Canada are very expensive (cloth is also so will likely
: get it all at once)

: This is my first glassing attempt, but based on the results of others on the
: board these materials don't seem to be overly difficult to work with for a
: beginner (as compared with say Ted Henry's 6oz S-glass for instance)

: Thanks for any insight anyone might have.

: Ryan