I had the same question as you, Here is what I found. For me, the rolling bevel works just as good as bead and cove, It has taken me some time to get enough experience at making a good rolling bevel but my joints are fairly tight now. I practiced with about 10 strips around a fake set of forms with straights, curves, convex and intersecting joint areas. My first attemps were very poor but after about the fifth or sixth test strip my technique and speed started to improve by leaps and bounds. I am sure my kayak will have a few sunshine leaks but nothing major. People have told me that a kayak made with bead and coves is the lighter weight boat...big deal, Let the "weight weiner" kayak police worry about that. I have no intention of ever building with bead and cove after gaining this experience. This is only a personal observation and I am sure others will be glad to enlighten you on various methods. One thing about beveled strips that I really like is the fact that a 3/4" wide strip covers 3/4 of an inch, a bead and cove 3/4" strip covers about a 1/4" less space. Good luck with what ever method you choose.

: I plan on beginning my first stripper and am wondering about the options
: available for joining the strips. I've read Nick's book as well as the Ted
: Moore kayakcraft and they both seem to recommend bead and cove. Is there
: another way? I plan on ripping the strips myself but have not used a
: router much. Can I plane a bevel on them? Is this too time consuming?