Glue Drool: Clean it (inside/out). It's much easie than scraping it off later (especially on the inside). If you use damp rags to wipe glue, you should be able to remove all glue. I keep a gal. milk jug (with a whole cut out of side) with warm water in it & routinely rinse & refrersh rags while removing glue. Any small amount of residue will come off when you sad the hull. (personnaly, I hated having to scrape the glue beads form inside the hull where it was hard to get to.

Cove & Bead Direction: I use cove-up on both sections. You need to put a beveled (45 degree +/-) on the sheerline strrips for them to mate. The done't need to match exactly, just clse enough so the outer edges are flush when mating hull-to deck. Same thing for keeel strips. Where the two meet, you would custom taper/bevel these edges.

Taping Keel: Can you explain why you're taping the keel? Is it for extra abrasion protection? Not suer I've heard of anyone doing this ohn the outside of the hull before. I do use a small narrow strip of abrasion-resistant polypropelene cloth at the bow & stern under the water line. Whatever the reason, the problem is still commont to using tape at the sheerline to joing hull-to-deck. First off, you might consider using scrap pieces of cloth. I bought 2 rolls of tape & ended up only using them on the INTERNAL sheerline joints where it doesn't matter what they look like. I learend from this site that using scrape pieces of cloth (cut at a bias) made for easier taping. As far as blending in the tape, you won't have the sewn hems of the tape to deal with, but you'll still need to feather in the edges to other layers of cloth & also for a fair hull/deck. This is basically done with epoxy.

Just my 2 cents!