: Glue Drool: Clean it (inside/out).

Pretty tough to reach especially when you get away from the sheer and start rounding the bilge and closing up the gaps. On the deck of a kayak, along the center line is a tough place to reach with a clean rag too. But I will continue to strive for this goal.

It's much easie than scraping it off later
: (especially on the inside). If you use damp rags to wipe glue, you should
: be able to remove all glue. I keep a gal. milk jug (with a whole cut out
: of side) with warm water in it & routinely rinse & refrersh rags
: while removing glue. Any small amount of residue will come off when you
: sad the hull. (personnaly, I hated having to scrape the glue beads form
: inside the hull where it was hard to get to.

Me too. I hate scraping. However, with the other side glassed, (hull interior after glassing the exterior) soaking the surface with water helps get the wood glue off...it sort of has a shredding effect on the wood itself, but the water disolves some of the wood glue and it makes the cleaning up of it a bit easier. This works only if the opossite side is glassed though, because the danger would be that wetting out the surface might weaken the joints.

: Cove & Bead Direction: I use cove-up on both sections. You need to put a
: beveled (45 degree +/-) on the sheerline strrips for them to mate. The
: done't need to match exactly, just clse enough so the outer edges are
: flush when mating hull-to deck. Same thing for keeel strips. Where the two
: meet, you would custom taper/bevel these edges.

Thanks. This idea of cove side up on both ends was suggested in my instructions, and in other sources. However, the bead side of the strips has rounded edges....not very conducive to a decent 45 degree bevel, without taking a lot off the edge.

: Taping Keel: Can you explain why you're taping the keel? Is it for extra
: abrasion protection? Not suer I've heard of anyone doing this ohn the
: outside of the hull before.

Yes, I noticed on my Wife's boat, that the keel gets a lot of abuse. Abrasion and strength...I used 3/16 inch strips, the keel seam was less than a perfect join...I ended up filling from the inside to help fill the gaps. I wanted some extra strength here.

I do use a small narrow strip of
: abrasion-resistant polypropelene cloth at the bow & stern under the
: water line. Whatever the reason, the problem is still commont to using
: tape at the sheerline to joing hull-to-deck. First off, you might consider
: using scrap pieces of cloth. I bought 2 rolls of tape & ended up only
: using them on the INTERNAL sheerline joints where it doesn't matter what
: they look like.

I felt this way too. And I used the 9 oz. tape exclusively on the inererior sheerline joint as well. I agree, after I made the mistake of using that 9 oz tape on the keel line, I wasn't going to chance using it on the sheerline exterior. I guess at the time that I was reinforcing the stems' keels, I didn't know that the 9 oz tape would give me such a high profile "error" I ended up using scrap strips elsewhere.

I learend from this site that using scrape pieces of cloth
: (cut at a bias) made for easier taping. As far as blending in the tape,
: you won't have the sewn hems of the tape to deal with, but you'll still
: need to feather in the edges to other layers of cloth & also for a
: fair hull/deck. This is basically done with epoxy.

: Just my 2 cents!

Thanks, I hope I don't owe you any change.
Bill Cruz