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Re: Strip: Questions for the "Panel";Best Practice
By:William F. Cruz
Date: 11/10/2003, 8:15 pm
In Response To: Re: Strip: Questions for the "Panel";Best Practice *LINK* (Richard Kohlström)

Richard! Thanks for the response!!!

: Hi Bill!
: Some short answers
: The strips of Nordic Spruce (Picea abies) 4,5x19mm (11/64 x 3/4"(sic!)is
: so elastic you can bend them in every direction. I dont need any
: "cheaters" at all.

You lucky Swede! Unless I move to your country, I'll have to deal with the "cheaters" and the fills.

: I turn the cove up for the hull, starting with the sheerstrip. I lay strips
: on both sides at same time up to two-three strips above(on the upsidedown
: hull) the waterline. Then I fill one side up to the keel line with an
: plus. After that I draw a line along the keel and put the dosouki to work.
: Then fill the other side with strips. The two last strips must be wrestled
: in place with some mild force.

I like this style of stripping too. I did this on the hull, but I wanted to try the "hering bone" method on the deck....I thought it would work okay because there wasn't too much camber on the center line for most of the surface. It ended up not being all that easy (or successful) of a joint to make. Cove up for the hull. Agreement!

: On deck I mix bevelling, bead up and cove up depending on the pattern.

I think I understand here, you might be describing a situation where you run the king plank down center, then strip starbord and port sides of the centerline with their own "football" (American football, also known as the pig skin) pattern. If this is the case, then the strip pattern dictates position of the bead or cove. Good point.

: I leave them to dry. Then take a scraper and rub them off. I never again wipe
: the drools off. The glue soaks into the wood and its very hard to sand
: everything away.

I've had this experience...the diluted glue water soaks into the grain....I hate it when that happens. For me scraping's not a problem with one side of the surface glassed...I use water to dilute the glue before I scrape, the wood tends to shred a lot, but it all gets smoothed out with sand paper. I learned that from an older gentleman just north of me...retired machinest...made boatmaking a hobbie and was fetured in a local community paper....I called him up and asked for a visit.

Glue spots left under the glass-epoxi will make very ugly
: spots after some sunlightexposure.
: See above. I try to do as tight as possible joints. There can be some minor
: cracks or mishaps sometimes. I seal them with "dookie smutz"
: thickened epoxi with wood dust. This makes it almost invisible. I have
: used other wood fillers but never again, why laborate when you can make it
: yourself easy with epoxi.

Well, most recently, the weather. I wanted to glass a section, and I wanted to glass it now. If I had used the dookie smutz, I would have had to wait until it set before I could sand and glass. Using the Elmer's let me do it a couple hours later. Also the mess. I must have Parkinsons attacks when I get to filling because I can never lay a neet fill. I always end up taping the cracks and fill areas off...which can be a long drawn out process when the areas are so close together that the tape of one fill covers the adjacent area to be filled. But again, good solid technique...thickened epoxy dookie smutz for all fills, regardless of location and severity.

: I usually lay the entire hull first after sealing. Two layers. The outer
: stems gets an extra strip of biascut glass which is thoroughly wetout
: before application. Let it be quite tacky before app. and use your gloved
: fingers. It´s a real messy work. After curing you can bevel the edges to
: invisibility. I have once used glasstape from WestSystem for the stems.
: That was no good at all! It was visible and ugly and hard to get rid off.
: Now the tape is only used for inside seams where you cant see it and it´s
: very easy to put in place if you presoak it and lay it in the soft fillet.

This happened to me too. I'm in total agreement. Do not tape anything that is high profile like the stems' keel line or the exterior sheer joint. I will live with my tape line on this boat...but the next one will have a piece of cloth, bias cut, thoroughly wet out. I've done the feathered boarder with success, so I understand how it works.

Thanks for the responses. How's your cat responding to his "therapy"?
Bill

Messages In This Thread

Strip: Questions for the "Panel";Best Practices?
William F. Cruz -- 11/7/2003, 3:40 pm
Re: Strip: Questions for the "Panel";Best Practice *LINK*
Richard Kohlström -- 11/10/2003, 3:21 am
Re: Strip: Questions for the "Panel";Best Practice
William F. Cruz -- 11/10/2003, 8:15 pm
Re: Strip: Questions for the "Panel";Best Practice
RNB4TLA -- 11/8/2003, 11:13 am
Re: Strip: Questions for the "Panel";Best Practice
William F. Cruz -- 11/9/2003, 1:09 pm
I'll answer the easiest question :)
Paul G. Jacobson -- 11/8/2003, 12:48 am
Re: I'll answer the easiest question :)Thanks!
William F. Cruz -- 11/9/2003, 12:50 pm