Jeff,

I'll have to pass on the fairing question since I've only built one skin boat.
This is an issue with no clearcut answer that I can see. Check the archives and search for BC vs non-BC. (I lean towards non-BC)

I was curous about the sharpening system you mentioned, so I Googled it and took a look. I'm concerned that that system might not be the 'right' solution to your sharpening needs. (At least as it relates to planes.) The Gatcos appear best suited to sharpening knives. (Assuming I'm looking at the same kit you got.) The swinging action has the potential to introduce a convex curve into your blade edge.

I'm a waterstone guy myself. I'm still getting all of the rest of my planes and chisels tuned, the gear is out on the kitchen counter right now, actually.

As I understand it, the best way to ensure a sharp edge tool (plane, chisel) is to lap the back until it is polished and flat (I only go up to 4000 grit; 200 for chip remeoval, 800 for most work, 4000 for finish sharpening). Once you have the back lapped flat, you will want to hone the bevel to 25 degrees with say an 800, then you microbevel (if you use one) with a 4000. I know a couple of people who quit at the 800 and things work well for them, so...

I've got a new Stanley with a screw depth adjuster that adjusts very well. My other block plane is an older plane (my grandfathers) that just has a lever to adjust the depth, and it is a bear to get set. I've found for both, the best way for me is to make the depth of cut too large, then dial it back up into the plane.

The older plane works best if you tighten the knob just enough to let the blade move with some force to adjust it, then lock it all the way down. Just before you lock it down, flip the plane over and check for parallel, I use a light tack hammer to tap the back of the blade into alignment, then lock it down.

I've got a link to Leonard Lee's 'Sharpening' on my site if you want to read a book on the subject.

Aaron