Tony,

You might want to cut the stiffeners every 3/4 of an inch or so in the areas that are not conforming(kind of like the teeth of a comb). This will allow the hatch to flex a bit(cut as many kerf lines as you need). Put the hatches in place and use a couple of ratchet straps to pull the hatch into place, snug with the hatch lips. After a test fit to make sure it will conform properly, schmear the kerf cuts on the stiffeners with thickened epoxy, put the hatches in place and let them cure. After they have cured you can remove them and beef up the stiffeners with a thin layer of plywood if you think they need it.

If you can't understand this jibberish let me know and I'll try to be more concise.

Ken

: I have been going through the process of fitting flush hatches to my
: Chesapeake 16 and I have come across a problem with the front hatch. I
: know I can fix this problem with a little persistence and using the trial
: and error method but I thought somebody out there in kayak building land
: may have a quicker and more reliable way of fixing the problem.

: I have used the templates for the sheer clamps to get the correct (or what I
: thought was the correct) radius in the hatch to match the radius in the
: deck but it seems the deck has a tighter radius than I anticipated. I have
: since taken the stiffener off the back of the hatch and tightened the
: radius but not enough it seems, as I said I could continue to do this
: until I get the radius correct but there must be an easier way.

: I have since made a template off the deck of the kayak and I will use this
: for my next attempt, I just thought there may be someone who has been
: through this before me and may be able to give me a tip or hint to make my
: life a little easier.

: I have attached a photo showing the problem also a link to my kayaking site
: that has just been updated.

: Thanks Tony