: After I was finished with the wiring chore, the wires held everything
: nicely in shape while I epoxy filleted between wires, let it set, pulled
: the wires and got on with the inside seaming job.

Wiring the deck to the hull did help pull out some of the flat spot. What remained, I gave up on and just decided I will deal with later by trimming the slight overhang on the deck.

Part of the problem was that I simply could not wire all the way down to the bow and stern ends. Even with the hatch holes cut, I couldn't reach far down. So....

What I did for the bow end was to wire one set of holes near the end early on, leaving the very tip open and leaving open another section between the wired set and the holes closer to the front bulkhead, which I was able to reach for wiring. The in-between section fell into place even without wiring, so that was no problem. The bow tip I wired in unconventional fashion: I cut a longer wire, pushed it straight through both the left and right holes (easy at the end because the angle is very steep and the distance short), and pulled one end OVER the top of the bow to twist it closed on the side. The tip closed nicely that way. Bow and mid-sections look good.

For the unruly stern end, I had more difficulty. I fully wired all hole sets as far as I could reach (from through the hatch opening). That still left several hole sets open right at the worst part of the assembly, past the remaining flat spot which now is very slight. I used a long wire near the stern end as described above to help pull the thing together, but I couldn't do that for any of the other hole sets. The worst thing is that I have a gap just before the stern tip. The gap is between the deck and hull on both sides (vertical gap) and of course I can't close it with stitches because I can't thread the wire through the holes (no room to maneuver fingers inside). I can't even push a long wire straight through on those. I CAN wrap around a nylon tie-down strap to reduce the gap, but there is still a gap.

At this point, because the boat appears to be straight (viewed head-on and from above), and the lines flow smoothly (viewed from the side), I think I'll close the gap when I do the end pour. I'll masking tape the outside and let the dookie schmutz fill the gap, then glass over the whole thing. That means I'll change the order of things in the kit instructions (which call for glassing the exteriors before doing the end pours), but I can't think of any reason it'll cause harm.

: For guillemot s&g #2 I wired the easy bits in the vicintity of the cockpit
: and hatch hole and got fed up with the fiddling and contortions. Then I
: remembered that Joaquin had mention the staple gun. Well .... blap, blap,
: blap - problem solved!!

This is so tempting. But I don't think it'll fix the gap. If the parts are so unruly in the first place, do the staple holes tear and elongate?