30" wide at the curved back and with it resolving to an apex will allow this to be stripped readily. just assume from the beginnning that you'll use ht gun or steam and that there will be this extra step - in no time you'll be a pro. make strips 3/16" thick and consider narrower strips will make it easier.

the big question is the stripping method:

1/if youstrip radially, every strip will get continuously shaped from nothing in one end to wide to nothing in the other. however the form shaping will be the easiest of all and probably end up looking the coolest. lots of work, but possibly worth it.

2/put one strip down at the sheer(ea side) then one at the deck(or hull)peak and alternate and only shape the bow ends to accept the next strip. there will be some twist effects on the curve, but if you use 3/8" wide strips and allow them to staircase, you'll be able to sand/fair them away and as your bending gets better, this may be minimized. you'll get the usual staggered ends going up at approx 45deg.
this is by far the simplest, but gives that strip resolution to a 'concentric eye' effect that to me looks wierd in the middle of a stripped field of a hull or shape. as there will be 4 of them that may not be that big a deal.

3/combo of 2 above. choose to segment each quadrant by say 3 and put a strip at deckpk,sheer at 1/3 pts between. then either eye strip or mitre ea one betw.

i would have no qualms about this whatsoever, but yr call, just expect that there will be a bending learning curve, that some strips wont work, and that there will be this 2nd step. if you can, try a few rob mack's northern cedar and 1/8" strips and no prior bending - even a chance that would work.