chris’s suggestion abt lots of formwk is right on. in real curvy areas on my yaks i’ve used down to 2in(others 3,4,6,8" whatever makes sense) spacing in difficult areas. i’d suggest a solid 3d endform and 4 - 6 forms at 4-6 in spacing around the max beam. your tests will give you guidance. you don't have to bevel if you always put the reference side on the small circumference side. as your shape is so symmetrical your maximum beam is the form placement reference for deciding form ply face placing. no big deal, but more work if you want.

one thing you have going for you, is that the curvature at the end lessens to resolve to a peak. this approach is perfect for bending as it is difficult to keep curvature constantly going to the end of a pce of wood unless you form it when overlength and cut back after bending. this precludes some prior shaping (type 1 )
and as your shape/form is so simple – test it - just bang some nails and blocks in the workbench by eye to the approx shape and test some strips of wood and htgunning out. the wood will smoothout if your judgement is out a bit.

and lets say you cant afford space, money or time for steam or a htgun, use thin strips and the mockup above and test how much curvature you actually can make. and then from the pk of the curve(the 30” width) make the hull that little bit longer to accommodate the constraints of yr material or technique. no real problem, it doesn’t have to float, just a little bit more surface area.