: Hi all, I'm back. I still haven't built my Gulimont Expidition. Forms are
: cut, strongback built, and then my status suddenly changed from a single
: irresponsible guy to practically married (still irresponsible though). I'd
: still like to build, but not until the dust has settled a little bit.

: Anyway, as you may recall, I was also going to build a stripped hull for an
: ice boat. Not wanting to spend over $100 on CAD software I ended up using
: KayakFoundry software to design the hull. Attached is a pic. I've built a
: couple of cedar strip canoes with real easy lines. The stern of this hull
: worries me. Is it strippable? Comments? Suggestions? There are a few
: dimensions that can't change. Station 6 has to be high enough for my fee
: with boots on, and the stern has to be around 30" to fit two people
: inline.

: If the pic link doesn't work, try this:
: http://groups.msn.com/LandsailerandIceboatdesignandconstruction/designdrawingsandsketches.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=132

: Thanks for any comments!
: Dave

I think to create the smooth flow of this form you must use full length longitudinal
strips.

I don't think stripping this would be very hard at all. IF,

You use 3/16" thick northern white cedar and a heat gun, you can very easily
bend a curve with a 2-1/2" radius.

Obviously the sharper curves of the bulb of the stern will be the most challenging.

I'd create a stem form for this area with the stem (usually bow/stern profile)
oriented horizontally instead of vertically. This will give you the shape/profile of the
stern viewed from above. I’d make this stem form go back into the shape as far as the
greatest height of the deck.

Then I'd hot glue, perhaps as few as three station forms, on top and bottom of this
horizontal stem to shape the sharp curves to the stern edge.

Then I'd try some test stripping patterns, centerline out to sides, sides into center
and see what will work best.

The heat gun will bend the 3/16" NWC very easily, but you will need the start the
bends of each strip with the bulb/stern end in a vise since the concave/inside is where the bending
takes place. The forms will restrict your ability to use the heat
gun on the strip while on the forms.

You might try a heated pipe to bend strips instead or along with the heat gun.
A pipe clamped in a vise with a torch heating the inside will work. A common tool of
musical instrument makers. This might make the bent curves more regular to start with.

I'd suggest dry heat bending over water soaked/steam bending because it is much faster,
you can reduce a bend quickly if you over-bend, and you can glue immediately.

Have fun!

All the best,
Rob Macks
Laughing Loon CC&K
www.laughingloon.com