: There is degrees of stick. There's 'Post Its' and there epoxy. My acetate
: (this would be the clear plastic pages we used to print on for display on
: the overhead projector, the stuff that melts if your put it in the laser
: printer instead of the inkjet) sheets definately stick to my epoxy work.
: However, the miniscule effort needed to seperate a sheet from semi or
: fully cured epoxy is a lot closer to the 'Post it' side of the graph. The
: finish it leaves on the epoxy is smooth and shiny. Pygmy actually sent
: some in their kit to put between the epoxy and the weight when butt
: scarfing the panels.

I think you might be using mylar, which is a polyester plastic. The simplest way I've been able to tell the difference is by lightly scoring the plastic with an xacto knife or single edge razor blade. Apply no more pressure than you would use to write with a pencil or ball-point pen. Then flex the plastic. Acetate breaks sharply and cleanly when gently bent, while mylar and similar polyesters need to be flexed several times and then may give a ragged edge. Polyester and mylar have pretty much taken over the market for acetate, but when I needed to cut a stencil, or a mask for airbrushing, I'd go with real acetate.

: Earlier this year I began a quest to find a plastic that indeed would bond to
: epoxy, or an adhesive that would bond epoxy to plastic, and thus far I am
: unsuccessful. The point being if its plastic it aint gonna stick to epoxy.

Well, what is the plastic you are trying ot bond to? If you are not thinking of teflon or polyethylene, there are a LOT of adhesives out there which might work. There are some new urethane-based glues which are pretty awesome. Look at the hardware store need the cunstruction adhesives like Liquid Nails. The "crazy glues" (cyanoacrylates) can work, too.

How strong of a bond do you need? In most cases adhesives can be rated by how much tugging is needed to separate things when the bond area is one square inch. When you can't get a better rating on the PSI (pounds per square inch) scale you can sometimes improve on the bond by roughing up the area, effectively increasing the size of the bond area, or making a larger bond. Of course if you flex the bond and one piece is more flexible than the other you can effectively be putting a lot of pressure on a small area, thus exceeding the "strength" of the adhesive. I

Theoretially, if you could cover a large enough area with the adhesive from post-it notes you could lift a car -- but that would be a very large area, and you wouldn't want to have someone start peeling the bond away from an edge.

PGJ