: . . .It would be very difficult
: to hard chine a strip built hull.

While it might seem that way, actually it is not. In fact, fitting strips is a lot faster than with more rounded hull designs. You must have forms which are cut to the correct shape -- whih is no more difficult with hard chine or rounded hulls -- the forms just look different.

In effect you are going to build a panel out of edge-glued strips to replace a panel made of plywood. You'll use the forms to hold the pieces in place. Either start a row of strips at the corners (chine areas) on the forms, or lay on strips and let them overflow the forms at these points. Then use a straight edge resting on the forms to mark where to cut back the overhang. After that you strip the next section of the hull. If you start at the keel and work out, you can do both sides symmetrically on the same day. since you are trying to emulate flat plywood panels, your strips can be square edged. There is no advantage to using bead and cove strips.

: For more rounded shapes, it is pretty
: easy. 6 or 8 pannel S&G hulls are kind of a pain... more holes to drill,
: more smutz to lay in the gaps between the panels.

6 and 8 panel s&g hulls are getting into the territory of round hulls. They like to be called "multi-chine" but that is a symantic effort to disguise geometry. Break each of those panels into thirds and you'll have strip hulls. You might as well build them around forms, edge glue them without fillets, and just glass the thing and be done with it.

Or, be happy with the acceptable compromise offered by using 6 and 8 panels. It isn't hard chined and it isn't round -- but it can be a wonderful boat.

Just some thoughts. I'm sure others will eventually flame me for my heresy

PGJ