: However, I'm puzzled as to how the rails can be installed and removed when
: the studs are epoxied onto the hull interior.
: Any ideas how to allow rail removal without cutting anything off?

Here's how I mounted mine. I ordered the 1/4" size stud, so I had to drill out the the hole in the Yakima rail. I turned the kayak on its side. This allows mounting one at a time without a need to apply clamps. If the hull and deck aren't joined, it will be easier to clamp two at a time. With the studs inserted into the rail, I located the mounting points. I used strapping tape to mask off areas slightly larger than the bonding stud bases in the appropriate spots. With the studs removed, I masked the bottom of the rail so that epoxy will not stick to the bottom of the rail. I roughed up the epoxy on the hull with sandpaper for better adhesion. I made a putty with thickend epoxy and chopped fiberglass. I buttered the hull with the epoxy mixture, placed the studs in the glob and added a good bit more of the epoxy mixture over the base. Try to avoid getting epoxy in the threads. The masked rails were inserted over the studs insuring the proper spacing. The epoxy mixture over the stud base forms a bedding for the rail. After the epoxy starts to setup, I used a utility knife to trim the squeeze out along the previously masked area on the hull. When the epoxy completely hardens, pull off the rail. For extra security, you can wax the masking tape on the rail before epoxying the studs. However, the epoxy has released easily from the stapping tape. I used two stainless washers and a stainless and nylon locknut above the rail. The washer spans the top of the rail. I ordered the studs long enough for this type of mounting. If this isn't clear, let me know and I will take a picture.

Kurt