: Here's how I mounted mine. I ordered the 1/4" size stud, so I had to
: drill out the the hole in the Yakima rail. I turned the kayak on its side.
: This allows mounting one at a time without a need to apply clamps. If the
: hull and deck aren't joined, it will be easier to clamp two at a time.
: With the studs inserted into the rail, I located the mounting points. I
: used strapping tape to mask off areas slightly larger than the bonding
: stud bases in the appropriate spots. With the studs removed, I masked the
: bottom of the rail so that epoxy will not stick to the bottom of the rail.
: I roughed up the epoxy on the hull with sandpaper for better adhesion. I
: made a putty with thickend epoxy and chopped fiberglass. I buttered the
: hull with the epoxy mixture, placed the studs in the glob and added a good
: bit more of the epoxy mixture over the base. Try to avoid getting epoxy in
: the threads. The masked rails were inserted over the studs insuring the
: proper spacing. The epoxy mixture over the stud base forms a bedding for
: the rail. After the epoxy starts to setup, I used a utility knife to trim
: the squeeze out along the previously masked area on the hull. When the
: epoxy completely hardens, pull off the rail. For extra security, you can
: wax the masking tape on the rail before epoxying the studs. However, the
: epoxy has released easily from the stapping tape. I used two stainless
: washers and a stainless and nylon locknut above the rail. The washer spans
: the top of the rail. I ordered the studs long enough for this type of
: mounting. If this isn't clear, let me know and I will take a picture.

: Kurt

I am printing your detailed description.