Well done, Bryan,

Also worth pointing out:

Grab toggles are much safer in rough water than grab loops. You have installed grab toggles, but also installed bungies on them to keep them from banging about (not a safety issue, but saves the annoying noise!)

: Deck rigging is really a question of where you paddle. For salt water I would
: suggest an expedition layout with shock cord at the fore deck for a net or
: sea map - even the occasional bannana.

I have found that shock cords which run perpendicular to the length of the kayak seem to hold items better than crisscross or zigzag bungies. Diagonal bungies seem to let items shift to the sides more.

"Traditional" cross-deck rigging as often seen on Greenland style kayaks, with non-stretchy cords and sliders really makes for a bombproof attachment for spare paddles and the like. The drawback is that you can't open them as much as a really stretchy bungie, but for holding items 1-3" in diameter, it's
almost unbeatable.

I like the net idea. You could use two layers of net with a drawstring or zipper between them and have a self-draining deck bag that would really retain your items well.

: This image shows expedition rigging. Also important is the self rescue cords
: on the aft deck (behind the cockpit) that enable you to slip in your
: paddle blade, creating a outrigger type of support, which helps in a solo
: re-entry.

And practice using same! Webbing straps with side release buckles like Seaward uses will affix the paddle even more rigidly for outrigger rescues.

: An extra paddle is placed behind the rear hatch.

Note, Linda, that bungies are needed for both the blade ends and the shaft ends. "BCU types" like to have their blades facing the cockpit with the shafts toward the bow or stern. I believe this is so 1) you can feel the index of the blade in case you need to roll up with a paddle half, and 2) big waves may be less likely to grab the blade if it is nearer the coaming. I like to have my blades facing the bow or stern, as it's easier to stow that way. For shaft-to-bow (or stern), you either need to have some sort of "stand off" to keep your bungie raised above the deck, or have a buddy help you stow your spare.

: Really, important is that if you wet exit - you have something to grab so you
: are not seperated from your kayak.

Perimeter decklines can be critical.

They are also of help when you're doing a rafted rescue so your rescuee can reach across their boat, and pull themselves up by the lines on your boat.

A bead or two can keep the deckline above the deck--keep it from freezing to the deck, and also make it easier for cold or gloved fingers to grasp.

: The hatches shown are Kajak Sport,

Rubber hatches are nice and waterproof and don't snag too badly in rescue situations.

: the deckline cleats are from the German Lettmann company and are made out of Nylon.

Are these pretty tough? I broke a "spider" cleat off a student's kayak one time while doing a rescue.

Shawn