Sure why not give it a shot.

I'm going a different route, will wet out the bare wood with epoxy..then later lay on the cloth...then will wet out the cloth with thinned epoxy.

after thats dry i'll fill in the weave with epoxy and a foam brush, which i've found is almost as smooth as when you put on varnish.

I "think" the thinned epoxy wet out will do good for avoiding pooling, but you know it's going to need a really smooth sanding job to start with.

Most of the pooling i get is when doing the inner hull...all those cracks and gaps.

: Hi,
: I am shortly to start building a couple of kayaks for racing/training - an
: Australian-designed TK1 by David Payne, and the Guillemot Mystery. So I'm
: looking to keep the weight low (compared to my C17 that has been
: over-engineered as normal in a first-time build!) - partly by using light
: glass (it won't be getting beached or used in rough conditions with heavy
: loads, just lakes/rivers).

: Another thought I had was vacuum-bagging the hull when 'glassing/epoxying it.
: Has anyone done this? Is it possible and how would/did you set it up?

: My thought was to lay the glass down, epoxy, then cover with plastic sheeting
: that was taped to the strongback. This should squeeze out any excess epoxy
: and let it drop down to the strongback so it won't pool on the boat.

: Any thoughts? I considered it as a friend has a new carbon-fibre kayak and
: when ordered, he could have gotten 2 - 3 kilograms (4-6lbs) weight
: reduction if they bagged it (but added $1000 to the cost!).

: Thanks,
: Darren
: Melbourne, Australia