I use the heat gun when the resin starts to thicken but I'm not satisfied with the amount of microbubbles that are left. It takes a fine touch and a hair drier would be safer. If there is an area that needs more attention I gently warm that area up in order to make the resin more runny and easier to squeegee. This will also make the resin set up faster, so you don't get many tries before you are done. The tight weave cloth does not contain much resin, so I'm not so much pushing resin around or removing excess resin, but pressing the bubbles out. On open weave cloth I rarely go through this process.

A heat gun and resin can be used in some interesting ways. For a hard to reach joint that needs to be sealed, warm it up with the heat gun and then apply resin. The resin will suck right up as the area cools. Greenland paddles, at least those made from cedar can be reinforced at the tip by generous heating and applying resin. It will wick up the end grain at least 1/2 inch.

Ted

: Hi Ted,

: When you use the heat gun, do you do this aftet the stage where you've
: applied and squeegeed the epoxy from the glass? What effect does using the
: heat gun have, if any? Do you have to be careful about pushing epoxy
: around or accelerating the curing of the epoxy?

: thanks