: Apologies if this is one of those regular questions (I did try the 'search'
: first..)

: I'm getting my thoughts organised for building my first strip kayak. Due to
: the cost, and obscurity of supply of bead and cove router bits here(New
: Zealand), I'm planning to bevel the strips. Yes, I've seen the
: conventional wisdom that suggests using B&C on the first boat, but I'm up
: for the challenge..(I think..) I'm also keen to go the stapleless route,
: and maybe try out the fishing line technique - and failing that, maybe
: some hot-glue.

: From what I've read on this forum already, it seems that getting bevels right
: is an aquired art, and an apprentice like me will probably end up with
: some unsightly gluelines once all is faired.

: So, I have a couple of questions for the resident experts: 1: What glue to
: use between the strips - given that all will be sealed and watertight
: under the epoxy, is something like a waterbased aliphatic PVA suitable for
: the job, or is there something better that I should look at?

: 2: Given that my first boat-load of bevels are likely to be of less than
: perfect precision, would mixing some wood flour into the glue at the start
: be a viable option to disguise the gluelines? Or would that weaken the
: join too much?

I've used various glues over the years for strippers and have settled on BALCOTAN. That is what it is called here in Ireland anyway. It is waterproof, and catalises using atmospheric humidity. No hardeners required. While it would be no good for tacking a S&G (loses strength when gap-filling) it is great for strips because it foams as it comes into contact with air and it is, as a result, very easy to scrape off any excess. I find a Stanley utility knife blade is all that is required to quickly scrape off the excess on the hull exterior, while I use bits of an old saw blade sanded to various radii for the inside.

Balcotan comes in rapid and slow versions. For stripping the slow is fine, it gives a long enough open time while setting fast enough that you can move from one side to the other and back again without having to wait.

I have found that the rapid foams more than the slow.

In the photo you can see the foaming at the squeeze out as well as the actual Balcotan bottle standing on the strong-back.

In regard to not using Bead and Cove. The strips are so thin anyway that there is very little V between them, especially on the deck where you really see it. The odd touch with a plane may be necessary in very curved areas, but often you are having to shape long tapered pointy ends in parts of these areas anyway.

You will find that there is actually far less planing involved than you mignt think. I also believe that you will find far less need to fill than you may imagine. Stripping is a fairly refined process. I do not believe, If you work with a little care (and clamp between stations) that you will feel the need to fill anywhere.

Click on the link to see what I mean by clamping between stations.
http://www.etiennemuller.com/northstar/pages/0032.html

While on the subject. A friend told me about glue being used in making commercial wooden jacusis. Aparently the glue has a pleasing red colour and leaves a fine red accent at every joint. It is also very waterproof, very strong and used out of the bottle (no hardener). It could be nice for stripping.

I was wondering if anyone had an idea what this glue was called.

Etienne