: Btw, bead and cove isn't a cure all, you still have alot of hand fitting at
: the ends where you have to taper the strips and then have to recut the
: bead/cove after the strip is tapered by hand. Strippers require hand
: fitting no matter what method you choose. Makes for a very pretty boat but
: it's labor intensive. I too just bevel the strips.

: Bill H.

Bill makes a pertinent point about having to do a lot of beveling and hand planing at the pointy ends as well as the bilges or the keel (depending on the route you take). In which case you are planing off the routing work you did to start with.

Whatever you do with the hull, I would recommend that you keep your best strips for the deck and that you do not B and C them. The deck usually has less curve and little or no hand beveling is actually necessary. especially if your strips are not too thick. 3/16 rather than 1/4

The main reson for not B and C ing the deck planks though, is that you will probably want to bookmatch as much as possible. Ripping strips is a boring dusty job, but one of the benefits of ripping one's own strips is that you can bookmatch. (not always possible with purchased strips.) For this reason I number my strips in pairs as I cut them. Then I can use them symetrically on both sides of the deck and they will bookmatch where they meet at their convergences fore and aft. If There is a B and C on the strip you will find, by the law of Murphy, that the darned things are back to front for the purposes of bookmatching.

I have never, in the middle of a project, wished for a B and Coved strip. I have on occasion wished that the strip I had was not B and Coved.

There. My tuppance worth.

Etienne