: How do you go about truing up that edge for the first cut? I've snapped a
: string line and used a long plane. I ended up using a short fence that
: doesn't go beyond the blade withÊtwo strong feather boards pressing it
: into the fence on the way in. I don't think is one or the other - and the
: setup you show looks great. When I used a long fence I would sometimes jam
: the saw and I assume my feed wasn't level or a slightly warped board. I
: use a loose feather board past the blade.

Can't tell you that it was all that true. Used the saw's adjustable fence against the long feed fence to get it close, but had to back it off afterwards, as it's lock lever was imposing on my feed fence. Checked it w/ a 48" drywall square, but it can only get you so close.

I went w/ a fresh 7 1/4" (24T) blade, instead of a 10", and had the blade just clear the top of the board. Having the feed board stop at the point of cut, it left for minimal contact w/ the blade. My cuts came off pretty-darned consistent (by feel and by caliper). If my angle of attack was off at all, I don't think it showed in the results. I'd agree w/ Et, even though cedar cuts like butter, a good sharp blade can be your best asset for consistent cuts. (thanks Et for the jpeg link info!, I'll give it a shot. The pic is residue from enough strips for three Guilly's, and does not include the routers B/C chips).

Todd