I burn the sawdust and planer shavings in the wood stove that heats my workshop.

Donovan

: When ripping (and ripping and ripping ....) strips I prefer to use a table
: saw with a thin kerf 10" blade (I prefer Forrest brand).

: My fence is intentionally offset a little less than 1/64" (more open
: towards the rear of the tabletop)and is about 36" long.

: A splitter is an absolute must (double splitters if using two blades).

: The throat plate(s) is zero clearance and made with a replaceable hardwood
: face insert for when the sawdust eventually abrades it to the point where
: it becomes an "eigth inch or greater clearance plate".

: I use a featherboard on the tabletop that does not need to be adjusted after
: passes and will even accommodate uneven width boards (such as rough sawn
: lumber that has not been surfaced and can vary in width from one end of
: the board to the other end by as much as 8").
: I don't use a featherboard on the fence.

: I don't usually use 1x lumber for ripping, but rather 2x or greater, either
: surfaced or rough sawn.

: Although other machines such as the jointer, planer, bandsaws etc. are
: available if needed, 99% of the material that ends up as strips does not
: see another machine other than the table saw and cove/beader. This work
: flow allows me to rip as many strips as possible in as short a time as
: possible.
: The quality of the milled strip surfaces are great and certainly within
: tolerances for a piece of lumber that is going to be sanded.

: Nice surface quality is attainable if one makes sure that they use sharp high
: quality blades, machine alignments are dead on, and machine vibration and
: runout are as minimal as possible.

: I've not found it necessary to joint an edge before running the board through
: the table saw IF (note the emphasis on the capitalized words) I: 1. make
: sure that the CROWN, if any, is AGAINST THE FENCE
: 2. the SINGLE featherboard is exerting plenty of force and is POSITIONED
: IMMEDIATELY IN FRONT OF THE BLADE.

: Ripping a crowned board this way is similar to ripping on a bandsaw - it is
: not necessary for the board to contact the fence anywhere other than
: directly opposite the featherboard (immediately in front of the blade) - a
: little practice with this technique and the need for a jointed edge and an
: extended fence (for ripping strips anyhow) is eliminated.

: Sawdust can become a real problem so dust collecton should be a priority.
: I've dealt with this by having installed an overhead collection system
: with blast gates at every stationary machine. The tablesaw has two blast
: gates - one below and one above the table.

: How have others dealt with their dust?

: Joe
: Redfish Kayaks