I would assume that beveling is not correct for this boat. I beveled them per the instructions on building a hybrid Shearwater, which I was assuming at the time was the manual that CLC gave out for all hybrid boats. If the issue is only cosmetic, it's all right with me.

Good advice on sitting back for a bit - I've been in a rush to get the boat in the water so that I can enjoy it before summer ends and I have to head off to college.

The deck is a scary thought! Getting a design from paper to wood is a daunting task, but I don't want to go too easy/simple since this may be the last boat I have a chance to build for a long time. We'll see how it goes.

CLC accidentally sent the forms for the high deck model instead of the regular I had ordered, so I think I'll take this gap time to reprofile the forms from cockpit back - I'll welcome the extra height in front for my feet. We'll see if this is wise or not.

: Hi Mike.

: You seem to have beveled your planks at the chines and the stems. This may be
: correct for this particular boat, but if it is not then that may account
: for your slight overlap at the end.

: Normally stitch and glue is just wired without bevels, as in the picture
: below. This allows one to radius the corners accross the thickness of the
: planking. If the planks are beveled, when the chines are radiused you will
: find that you are going to see the fillet unless you have beveled very
: accurately and keep the radius quite sharp, especially in a single chine
: boat. Any radiusing is going to show end grain in either case.

: From what I gather you are working without detailed plans. If it is your
: first boat you will be working in the dark. I think it is time to take a
: couple of days off and wait for the instructions to arrive, before you
: continue and make a fatal error. This is after all ment to be fun

: In the mean time you could be planning your deck design with a bit of web
: browsing and perhaps building yourself a paddle.

: Etienne