: I am also wondering what your sanding method is...

Mark, I'm honestly unsure what Kyle refers to, but basically it's simply taking a minimalist approach to all "ingredients" that go in a boat. I used 3/16" strips, but highly recommend reading Rob Macks' (Laughing Loon Kayaks) shop notes since you have very little leeway and need to build very accurately (never a bad idea, actually). Then use squeegee only, never a roller or brush, to apply epoxy. Act like epoxy cost $5000/ounce, if you get the drift. Sand through the glass once or twice or thrice to learn precisely what too much and not enough sanding looks like. Make up sample pieces if you're squeamish, but losing a bit of glass generally will not cause the Earth to explode. Excess epoxy accounts for most excess weight without adding any strength; basically I'm performing a "poor man's vacuum bagging" operation (which is how racer's layups are done). I have used 5-oz fine weave cloths in the past, can't find it any more, now use 4-oz. with patches of 6-oz where extra stress may be encountered (cockpit area, immediate aft deck, etc.). Use of hardware is the second leading cause for excess weight. Avoid nuts-n-bolts, trim down foot brace rails or skip 'em altogether and position the forward bulkhead to fit. Eliminate cheek plates and back bands (they're rather worthless, actually, 'specially in an OI). Watch every ounce going in like a hawk...

Ultralight layups are obviously not robust rock bashers made for seal launches and landings, but hey, if you have zero oppurtunity to do that sort of thing why carry - and paddle - all that extra weight?

When I first joined this forum there was a discussion of just how heavy some thing or another needed to be built. Someone defending his light weight approach posted a reply I never forgot, and practically made a mantra of: "If it breaks I'll fix it and make it stronger." And as a matter of fact, I've had to fix very few things. Good old fashioned daring seat-of-the-pants engineering is half the joy of building light.