: Yes, the temperature angle - we don't want expanding air in the wood core.
: Do you allow the center to cure somewhat before moving on to the sides? And
: do you keep the boat on its keel while doing the sides, or do you tilt it
: a bit to get a more horizontal area to work with?
: greetings,
: risto
Btw, this is one of the reasons I use West's 207 special hardener, it's got a much longer working time, at average temperatures around a 1/2 hour. Fighting a fast hardener isn't something you'll want to do on the inside of the boat.
I also work entirely right side up. I spread the resin with a roller and brush, easier for me at least to get it spread quickly then can go back, section at a time, to squeegie it to remove excess resin. Another advantage to the roller is you are just spreading resin with it, not trying to get full penitration of the cloth like is very easy to do with a brush, slows the process alot doing that.
If you're new to glass, I'd suggest doing a couple practice pieces on scrap to see how the cloth/resin behaves. Costs a couple bucks but having a little experience makes a huge difference when you're doing a big job like a boat.
Bill H.
Messages In This Thread
- Strip: glassing the inside hull
risto -- 10/6/2008, 4:24 pm- Re: Strip: glassing the inside hull
Bill Hamm -- 10/7/2008, 12:57 am- Re: Strip: glassing the inside hull
risto -- 10/7/2008, 1:11 am- Re: Strip: glassing the inside hull
Bill Hamm -- 10/8/2008, 1:35 am- Re: Strip: glassing the inside hull
Bill Hamm -- 10/8/2008, 1:29 am- Re: Strip: glassing the inside hull
Clayton Plunkett -- 10/7/2008, 3:39 am - Re: Strip: glassing the inside hull
- Re: Strip: glassing the inside hull
- Re: Strip: glassing the inside hull
Clayton Plunkett -- 10/6/2008, 7:24 pm - Re: Strip: glassing the inside hull
- Re: Strip: glassing the inside hull