: Now we are both confused.
: The SOP for S&G goes like this. Once the panels are wired the inside of the
: seams is filleted and epoxy/taped. Some spot fillet and take the ties out
: before they tape. That's matter of choice. It would be very hard to tape
: the inside properly without fillets. The tape has a memory and will not
: stay down inside a sharp angle.
: Then the hull is turned and the outside of the seams is radiused so the tape
: will follow the contour. A 3/8" radius should do it. And the outside
: is epoxy/taped.
: Anyone who would go out in a boat that is held together with nothing but
: fillets is asking for trouble. A hull has to have epoxy/taped seams or
: some kind of mechanical fasteners.
: I have heard of hulls that are Glue and Screw which are taped on the outside
: to make them watertight and them filleted on the chine logs to close off
: places where water can hide.

I did some tests a couple of years ago, joining small pieces of 3 mm and 4 mm marine ply together with epoxy and breaking them to test the joint strength. Plain butted joints broke at 50% or more of the ply breaking point; joint with a 1 mm thick fillet broke at the ply not at the joint, and "scarfed" joints with a scarfing angle of only 2:1 also broke at the ply not the joint. Since then I wonder if the whole business of taping and filleting jonts might not be a bit overdone. I have also tested 4:1 scarf joints made using Titebond III, same result, wood broke before the joint - provided the joint was a good fit over its entire area of course.