: I like the fact that you notched the underside of the frame for your floor
: strips. A little. There are at least two sides to this idea, and some
: other thoughts to consider.

: first, your floor strips are making contact with the skin.

: Tom hangs the plywood from the inside cut-out of the frames, That keeps the
: plywood about an inch above the skin fabric.

: If the skin doesn't touch then any bilge water can slosh freely, and be baled
: out easily. There is also less of a problem with the fabic rubbing on
: frame parts, so less chance of it wearing through.

: Of course, with the floor strips all the way down, you can sit on them and
: get your weight down lower (lower center of gravity) giving better
: stability.

: Just to make your life more, um, interesting (or complicated): Have you
: considered making your floor strips with a cross section or shape other
: than square or rectangular? If you made them "V" shaped you
: could cut the grooves in the frames with a dovetail bit in your router.
: Two passes would give you a wide enough groove for a 3/4-inch-wide floor
: strip. Make that strip 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick in the center, but taper that
: to match the angle cut by your router. Strips cut like this won't fall out
: of the slots, even without being glued, and even a poor lashing job will
: keep them in place. The point of the "V" shape can be rounded
: over, reducing abrasion between the floorboards and the fabric. The
: ultimate in rounding would be to use dowels, or halves of dowels for your
: floorboards. If you use dowels, then holes drilled near the edge of the
: frames would be a quick way to replace notching.

: Just some thoughts to trigger your imagination. hope you enjoy them.

: PGJ

Actually on Tom's design with the plywood floor option, there are lots of options on Tom's site for floors btw, the plywood is only about 1/4" above the fabric. Most of Tom's boats are so narrow that you really want the seat as low as possible.

Bill H.