Thanks for all the kind words! I really appreciate it, and I'm glad other people like it too!

The boat is skinned in heavy duty 18 gauge vinyl, which is pretty tough stuff. Basically tear proof, and puncture resistant - unless something pretty sharp is involved.

Scott, scantlings for these boats seem to vary from author to author. Mine are a bit of a mix of what I thought would work and the limitations of the wood I had on hand. My ribs are 1.5", as I decided I'd need far fewer if they were this stout. My keel is bigger than my stringers, too, both to support the ribs and for a bit of directional stability. The stringers are 5/8"x1/2", which are a bit larger than Robert Morris', but smaller than others. The Gunwales (outwale) are 5/8" x 1.5", the inwale and rubrail smaller. This gunwale is smaller than Morris recommends, but much larger than the WoodenBoat article. Probably overkill for a boat this size.
The thwart/backrest is epoxied and screwed to each gunwale, and also notched and epoxied to the bottom of each inwale.

There doesn't seem to be a right way or a wrong way, for either scantlings or building method, as long as the boat doesn't come out too heavy or too fragile.
In fact, I built my boat right side up around temporary forms, very similar to building a Yost kayak, and it worked great, even though this is very different from anything I've read.

OK, I'm rambling. Thanks again, everyone!
Dave Gentry