Doh! I shoulda asked you guys first!

And we did tack the seams before filleting. Next time, I'll probably tack, then remove wires, then do really small fillets, because there won't be wires to get in the way.

Maybe if I ever decide to build Duane Strosaker's Point Bennett...

Brian

: To remove the wires, you tack the joints together first. I used a fairly thin
: epoxy/wood flour mixture in a syringe, going along the joints but leaving
: about
: a quarter inch unglued on each side of every stitch. The next day, you pull
: the wires, fillet, tape and put a sealer coat on the inside of the hull.

: The wire holes will leave some visible artifact no matter what you do. It is
: part of the building process, it tells a story, and doesn't look bad to me.
: I've filled my holes after pulling the wires using a syringe loaded with a
: similarly thin mixture of epoxy and wood flour squirting from the inside
: of the hull to the outside. This left clean, small little dimples, the color
: of wood flour/epoxy on the outside, which sanded flush easily and resulted in
: neat, darkish pinhole marks where the holes had been.

: I've also built leaving the wires in, cut them off on the outside, pushed
: them
: in against the panels inside and filleted over them. This leaves pretty
: copper-colored
: holes. It is somewhat problematic to get the copper clipped and sanded
: closely
: on the outside using this method. You will also have to run slightly thicker,
: heavier fillets to cover over the wires on the inside. And I found that even
: after clipping and sanding, the occasional wire will want to push out into
: the glass from underneath just slightly, creating a dimple, or even cutting
: slightly into the glass from underneath, I guess just from the small amount
: of
: flexing in the hull when you turn it over or otherwise move it around to
: work.

: --
: Ogata (eric)