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Re: Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm
By:Bill Hamm
Date: 6/3/2009, 1:21 am
In Response To: Re: Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm (Brian Scaborough)

: Hey, Kirk, I built a Sea Rider. The boat is snug, but not as bad as some SOFs
: I've paddled. I'm about 190 pounds 30" inseam, size 9 US feet. I used
: the standard 2 deck ridge config as in the plans, and I'm fine. I did move
: section 3 back maybe 2 inches toward the stern, and shimmed the gaps in
: gunwales and chines. I find it's in a good position for a foot rest now.
: (I sat there with my feet in a comfortable position on the wall, balanced
: a 2x4 thin edge behind my kneecaps, and measured to get an approximate
: distance.) If you do the same, email Tom Yost, and he'll give you new
: offsets for section 3 so you won't have to shim gunwales and chines.

: The one thing I would recommend is a modified masik. When cutting out the
: center hole in section 4, I would change the arch shape to a more flat
: topped shape. This is where her knees would touch the underside of the top
: of the section. The smooth arch I have makes forward finishing rolls more
: difficult, as my knees tend to slip inward along the arch, and thus lose
: contact, as the top of the arch is higher. I have glued a 2x4 to the back
: side of section 4, along the top, to make a broader masik, as there is no
: way I want 1/2" ply to be my main knee contact. When you do this (I
: used PU glue like Gorilla Glue) also radius the front and back side of the
: underside of the masik. And, I mean really radius it, not just sanding the
: corner off. This will get you just a little more kneecap room for getting
: into the boat. I fit fine, but my friend who is just a little bigger
: couldn't get his kneecaps in, and he suggested I do this on the next boat.
: To see what I mean with regard to masik shape, please look up pictures on
: qajaqusa.org forum or galleries. You will see people with flatter masik,
: and much shaping of the underside edges.

: Also, I would recommend using your 3/4" boards (from which you rip your
: gunwales and stringers) to make bow and stern ends, rather than the
: 1/2" ply that Tom recommends. My 1/2" ply ends look thin and
: fragile compared to other SOF boats, and it was hard to center the
: 1/2" ply on top of the 3/4" keel stringer. And I see that
: crooked junction where I tried to plane even the sides of the keel
: stringer every time I have the boat on the car :)

: Mind you, my bow and stern extends 4 or 5 inches past the end of the
: gunwales. I put a stern on that curves up in the same shape of the Anas
: Acuta (from which I traced it.) The Anas Acuta is based on the upturned
: ends of Ken Taylor's 1959 Iglorsuit kayak built for him by Emanuelle
: Korneliuson. (eh, probably spelled that wrong.)

: Email me direct if you need to see pictures to understand what I mean...

: Brian

I havn't had a problem with the 1/2" ply ends (stems). I cut a notch in the top opposite where it attaches to the keel so I can clamp them more easily and not use screws that don't do well on ply edge grain anyway.

Bill H.

Messages In This Thread

Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm
bueller -- 5/31/2009, 10:31 am
Re: Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm
Robert N Pruden -- 6/2/2009, 12:05 pm
Re: Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm
Andy Waddington -- 6/2/2009, 4:07 pm
Re: Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm
Brian Scaborough -- 6/2/2009, 10:16 am
Re: Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm
Bill Hamm -- 6/3/2009, 1:21 am
Re: Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm *LINK*
Doug S -- 6/1/2009, 2:22 pm
Re: Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm *LINK*
Phil Nelson -- 6/1/2009, 8:15 pm
Re: Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm
Bill Hamm -- 6/1/2009, 12:34 am
Re: Skin-on-Frame: converting ft-cm
Dave Gentry -- 5/31/2009, 5:02 pm